WELCOME RESPONSES

 

That is an excellent post and shows just what can be done. This is the sort of material that should be in the Wanderer. Even if one can (just?) afford a $100,000 motorhome, it makes more sense for quite a few to do it as you have done and invest the remaining $80,000.

 

I enjoyed reading your post. As I am on a pension I obviously would like to finish the bus as cheap as possible but still have it look good. I am assuming that a lot of the major stuff was 2nd hand. No problems with that.

I am at the stage where we can use the bus at a caravan park but we could not fee camp yet. The LED lighting interests me as I only have the start batteries at the moment. I will be getting agm house batteries in the future but by the sounds of things I could get away with 1 to start with.

You will have to post some pics somewhere of the work you have done. I have had a look at the led setup...I will be copying that for sure.

 

A good read Barry, wish I had a local supply of materials. Unfortunately scouring the local 'hard rubbish' etc involves a 70km+ round trip. On the rare occasion when I'm in town on a hard rubbish collection day, I drive around looking like a hawk, & occasionally pick up something worthwhile. It's a shame it's not close enough to make it a regular activity, but thems the breaks if you choose to live out in the bush.

regards

Ian

 

Hi Barry - interesting read

Are you going to drag your other tips here or onto your second page as you said?

 

Ian its strange that I can open the photos you have of Barrys work in IE but not yours?

Also have you done something to the format of your blog - it now appears 2 screens wide - dont remember it doing that before

 

You DIY Guys almost need to get together and put up a book of tips tricks and lessons - seems to be a lot of interest

 

Barry Im sure your comment re relative value of the base vehicle compared to conversion cost will have some thinking - with the outlay of that other conversion you mentioned you would want the base vehicle to be in pretty good nick to reduce risk of other problems down the track

 

THE POST WHICH STARTED THIS PAGE

 

When I bought my bus in July 2005, the seller had another already fitted out.

 

It was a very nice 1990 Coaster he was selling for $65000. I commented that it was a $50000 fit out on a $15000 bus. He agreed and explained how expensive the process was. I laughed and said that I could do better and have change from $5000.

 

Please do not take offence at my statement. You can judge for yourselves whether I can meet my boast, or whether in fact, if the topic even interests you.

 

Others may not have the time, or maybe the inclination to do what I have done, and I am the first to praise the magnificent effort performed by other members like Cuppa. You must have a look at his blog. I have just taken a different approach. Please take my post as a possible guide to others who might need to do it on the cheap. I also do not intend to criticise those who find value in quality products or workmanship which might also be expensive.

 

I hit the $1000 mark with the purchase of the Thermashield paint to do the roof.

 

Included in this $1000 is fridge, freezer, cooker with oven and grill and double 9kg gas bottle set up, double bed, sink, curtains, dinette, bench tops and cupboards and drawers, LCD TV and amplified antenna, reversing camera, magnetic fly screens, shower and whole bus LED lighting.

 

The bus is currently very comfortable for a three day free camp or unlimited use at a powered camp site.

 

I believe I have met or exceeded all Australian Standards on the work so far.

 

I have $4000 left and need floor coverings, awning, and additional electrics for extended free camping, and possibly a toilet and tankage.

 

I am still thinking about the toilet. I had a Porta Potti once and swore, never again. If I have a toilet it will be a marine china one to a black water tank. They are cheap so do not expect a big expense here.

 

That leaves the electric improvements. My choice of fridge freezer type dictates that I have a generator to run two hours a day, or four every second or six every third, in a pinch. If I want to be a good neighbour, a Honda 20i will take a big chunk of my remaining $4000. Even here, some members might prefer me not to be too close to them.

 

I set up my LED lighting on the existing bus 24 volt system. You will see earlier posts about LEDs not being up to the task. Things have changed! LaWrie and I have both gone for full LED lighting. I only have the starting batteries running these LEDs and my small LCD TV and amplified antenna. The bus start fine on the third day free camping, but I do not want to push my luck here. The fridge and freezer is also fine for this time, but is now in need of running.

 

So back to the electrics. I get a great deal of good info from past posts.

 

One got me rethinking about house batteries.

 

I had bought a 24 volt to 12 volt converter and two similar kits from Oatley. I am having trouble with the Oatley kits but still say they are a great source of stuff. (These and a top quality Cole Hersee DC switch I may no longer need are all part of my above $1000). I might go for a 12 volt house system and change my mind about those pesky inverters, to use the alternator while driving to charge such. Now I can run my 12 volt stuff from the 12 volt house system. I can also charge these during the two hour daily generator run, as well as top up my starting batteries from the LED use. Since charging is largely on a time controlled basis, I might avoid the need for expensive three stage charging systems. I will always monitor battery condition as a matter of course. A single solar cell panel might add to the comfort level.

 

It is not my way, to make extensive use of powered campsites.

 

Once you take electric refrigeration out of the storage battery equation, the needs can become very modest. I speak from experience. My boat was set up in much the same way for 20 years, and there, I mostly used fluoros and incandescents for lighting with the greater current demands. I had some LEDs for night vision and as an anchor and chart light, but they were not up to whole bus lighting like those available today.

 

I will stop before my ramble gets too long or repetitive.

My Starting point

A 1997 LWB, six cylinder, built for import to Australia, Nissan Civilian bus with seats and a wheelchair lift. The bus has full service records back to date of purchase confirming the 240 000 km as genuine. This and the excellent condition induced me to pay $29 000 for it, in July of 2005.

The seats and wheel chair lift are out. The seats, and ceiling liner were in great condition. I decided to keep the ceiling and a few of the seats in my  budget fitout. My motorhome can carry six for day trips and two for extended camping
My goal is self containment and sustainment for periods without limit. Caravan Parks are not for me.

The floor had a heavy plywood addition to carry the load of the wheel chair lift. I removed all of it and original floor was like new.

I have planned no solar in my fitout. It would blow the budget, create windage with panels and weight to carry with all the batteries. It is not needed.  Besides, I prefer to park in the shade. My solution to energy requirements will not suit all. It suited me fine for twenty years of self sustained travel in my boat. Expect the same for the bus.

The first picture below shows early progress on the kitchen unit.

Everything you see on these pages represents a total of $2000 spent so far on my fitout.

I will start additional pages as I spend the other $3000 of my planned $5000.

Refer back to the thread-"Another way to approach a fitout"- If you wonder how this all came about. If you are impatient for more info you can search for other past threads where refrigeration and other issues have been discussed.

Below are a few pictures of the earlier stages of the fitout. An added cupboard and counter top over the right rear wheel well has a hidden compartment for items like laptops and other valuables. The seats were in such good condition in this newer bus for me to use in the dinette and as the rear rest for the doule bed. The boot is large now with this backrest raised up. The ceiling trim is also in great shape. I might add a few overhead cupboards above the windows but will keep them small. I value the open space look as Cuppa does. The kitchen unit on the door side widens in two steps towards the bed to maximise the floor space and to have foot room standing at the bench. The area beneath the sink is the vapourr sealed box for the two 9kg gas bottles. These can only be accessed from the outside of the bus. The gas line stopcock, with orange handle, can be clearly seen both inside and outside the bus and can be reached for emergency shutoff from either. I have several pics of the stages of building my fridge- freezer and gas bottle storage. email me with feedback if you want more detail of the how to do it part, posted on this site. longlucas@fastmail.fm

 

 

 

 

 

The bed slats allow the mattress to breathe and not build up moisture and mildew. Note the two original seat frames used to support the bed centre. These bolt in the original position for a solid installation. The slats lift in small sections for access to the storage area. The backrest was raised to improve the boot area and to make a comfortable lounging area with the bed. The shelf above is handy for small items like speakers and remote controls for the audio video stuff.

 

 

 

 

Some doors and trim added to the kitchen unit. The trim is cedar venetian blind slats. The lower door is from some rattan end trim from a discarded bed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dinette table from the Spotted Gum offcuts. Same as rest of bench tops.

 

 

I bolted a couple of timber pieces vertically to the wall at the seat anchor points. (cream colour in the pic above).
At the top I screwed on a cross piece.
Now the table top rests on this cross piece with a locking piece of timber attached to the underneath of the table.
It acts as a spring loading on the table top which keeps it firmly in place.
It has an added advantage if you should bump in to the table. It gives a little and hurts much less.

 

I put the counter top below on sliding tracks. It now doubles as a desktop while sitting on the bed.

Another advantage is that there is no need to remove stuff on the counter top to gain access to the compartment below.

 

 

 

 

Below is the flooring courtesy of the local school. I have enough to finish under the dinette when I build the underseat cupboards.

The four dinette seats are belted and part of the six passenger rego.

 

 

 

  

I kept the back of the bench seat seen above. I raised it up several inches and it makes a very comfortable lounging rest for the double bed. The heater is still there, under the bed now. Maybe it will warm up the bed at the end of a cold day's drive. The boot area, beneath the bed, has been increased considerably by raising the bench seat back. Part of this space is accessable by lifting the split mattress. The kitchen area is built inside the wheelchair access door seen above. With the door open the cooking and serving area is directly accessable to the outside, under the awning.

 

 

 

Four Seasons hatch. Great hatch! Lots of ventillation for a cool bus.

This one does not leak, but I would never put any hatch over a bed. Came from a buy Noel made of hail damaged ones from an insurance company. I cannot spot the damage. Cedar venetion blind slats make nice trim. I am told that driving with the front louvre open on unsealed roads creates positive pressure inside the bus to keep the dust out. I have forgotten to close the louvres at times and taken off at highway speeds. No problems, but others say this should not be done. In fullclosed position there is still adequate ventelation for use of the cooker. Smart thinking Four Seasons!

 

 

Awning track salvaged from a local bin. Sew a rope edge in to some shade cloth and the whole thing cost very little. I had enough for Julian to do his bus on both sides.