This page will now be devoted to the best LED products requiring no DIY assembly.
The original page has been renamed DIY LEDs
LEDs have won their place in your motorhome, there seems no longer a need to justify their use nor spend many words outlining their virtues. There is still an ever diminishing group of naysayers who believe that their fluoros or halogens are better than LEDs. Join them if you wish and read no further. If you want better lights at a fraction of the energy use and very cheap as well, read on.
But don't expect to walk down to your local Jaycar or Dick Smiths and get the good stuff. Not yet.
I hope to keep this page much simpler. If you see it here, you will like it and it will be a good buy.
If you are new to this business, start with the DX LED blocks or 30 LED strip.
Use the added resistor suggested. They are easy to install and give very good light.
Progress to the other choices after you gain a little experience.
You saw it here first.
Is this current control?
Each set of three LEDs seem to have two resistors and an IC, possibly a variable voltage regulator.
This gives the possibility of current control and no more charging voltage issues on LED brightness and overloading the LED.
November 20 2007.
to this sixty LED strip.
One is on the way to Ian Bond, for evaluation. He does not know it yet, but I had to send it somewhere while I am on the road.
December 28, 2007
This report just in from Ian Bond:
G'day Barry.Have had the LED strip running for about a week now, taped underneath a shelve (to simulate one of the possible uses).
Pleased to be able to report that so far it has met one of my top requirements - reliability when running from 13.8 volts. No failures, no LEDs changing colour or intensity.
Overall the strip draws just under 400mA @ 13.8V for 60 LEDs - which is, of course, exactly an average of 20mA per LED. Just as it should be.
Obviously the IC's are some form of linear (lossy) current limiting - can't find any numbers on the IC however, so don't know anything about them.
Overall, at this stage, I could get interested in these strips WITHOUT the silicone tubing (I've come up with a way of mounting and protecting/weatherproofing the strips). Being white strips they blend quite well with the exterior white of the MH.
And after two months:
Well ... they have been running continuously on 13.5-13.8V since I last
emailed. I have added a temp sensor and can tell you there is less than
10 deg C rise above ambient, although that is measuring through the
silicone sleeve, so the LED temps could be a bit higher.
I did a simple power-off and let the batt volts settle from 13.8 to less
than 12 and can confirm the current remained substantially constant
(within 10mA) - obviously constant current IC regulators.
Everyone who has looked at them reckons they are bright (although any LED
is bright when you look at them directly), and they do a good job of
lighting the garage.
These strips are actually two 500mm lengths hand soldered together.
Caution! October 14 2007
Users have recently reported LED failures in the 28 and 12 LED boards and the encapsulated flexible strips from Dealextreme. DX will replace defective stuff at no cost to you, but the experience might be inconvenient. The cutable strips have had no adverse reports.
It looks like these rectangular boards with the miniature superflux type LEDs have been the main problem. They come in a variety of sizes from 8 LEDs to 28 LEDs.
You will find the easy fix below and now added as my warning on the DX page for each of these products.
I am doing some testing at the moment to recommend a solution to the failure of the DX LED boards. The problem is that 120 ohm resistors have been used to limit current and 150 ohms would have been a much better choice to protect the LEDs at charging voltages. The solution will be a relatively simple one and involve the addition of a suitable resistor as you wire in the LED block. The resistance value will be different for each size block or strip needing the addition. The cutable strips below already use 150 ohm resistors so are reasonably well protected from higher charging voltages.
Resistor values as follows where need indicated.
Just add the resistor in to the positive lead to the LED lamp.
Buy a five watt resistor. It is overkill but you will not have to bother with colour codes.
For 12 volt systems.
30 LED strip and 28 LED block 5 ohms
24 LED block 7.5 ohms
16 LED block 12 ohms
12 LED block 15 ohms.
8 LED block 17 ohms
For 24 volt systems.
Two 12 blocks in series 40 ohms
Just use the next higher value above if the exact resistor value is not available.
The above little gem is from Dealextreme. About one square inch, wires in a jiffy and at one watt, three would make a good area light. About eight bucks. I measured current at less than 80mA.
Click
Bluish cool white light.
and you will be able to buy some.
Buy a few at once and the price drops.
You are advised to add an external resistor in the power supply to this board.
Protection against charging voltages is insufficient with the 120 ohm resistors used in construction.
Here, I used a couple, and they are very good. The pair are in series for 24 volts.
This board has recently become available with 28 LEDs for under ten bucks. Same source as 12 LED board above. I have just had a look to figure out how the circuit is arranged with 28 LEDs which is not a multiple of three. 24 of the LEDs are in series of three with 120 ohm resistors and the other 4 are in series pairs with 300 ohm resistors. this one had a current of about 250 mA. Other combinations are also found on the same site. A 16 LED version is drawing 120 mA.
The boards are packaged with a variety of plug in connectors to select for your application. These boards are excellent buys for your motorhome.
Here is the board now with 24LEDS. That suggests 8 sets of three in series. At nine bucks it should be a good choice.
You are advised to add an external resistor in the power supply to this board.
Protection against charging voltages is insufficient with the 120 ohm resistors used in construction.
30 LEDs on the board below. Resistor pattern looked a bit strange. I had a careful look. They have arranged 12 LEDs in series pairs and 18 LEDs in series triples. Not the most efficient design but reasonable. This explains these boards being slightly warmer to the touch. Draws about 300mA so that puts it about 3.6 watts. It seems like more light than from a Luxeon type at the same nominal wattage. I measured the 12 LED board with the minature superflux LEDs, above, at under 80mA.
Bottom line is the above boards use 3mm superflux LEDs and the bottom board uses 5mm superflux LEDs. Specs show both with a wide beam of 140 degrees and very similar light output at 20mA current. Price and size preferences are the issues unless you find new ones in warm white and prefer that. Warm white superflux LEDs are on the market as separate LEDs for DIY.
The supplied double sided adhesive tape is not up to the job on the larger board below. You might need something a little more secure to keep it in place.
eBay source here These use very bright full size superflux type LEDS in cool white and are an impressive performer. I tried a little experiment and replaced four of the LEDs in the centre row with a couple of amber and a couple of yellow. Certainly made a difference for those who like warm white light.
The Keyring Flashlight now two for a buck.
The bargain of the Century
LED Lighting strips currently being sought at a good price. If you are impatient Jaycar has those shown in the second picture. You will have to special order to get continuous lengths as some dimwit decided to cut them up and put the pieces in bubble packs. Useless!
The strip similar to that picture below just listed on Deal Extreme. July 19 2007
66 LEDs on a strip one meter long for $18.55 delivered.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5312
No additional external resistor should be needed when wiring this cutable strip in whole or in part. Either for 12 volt or 24 volt series use.
Now, the picture of the meter long strip (actually longer) on the link above, shows a pair of connecting wires soldered to the positive and negative rails. To cut the strip in to shorter sections would require soldering wires to the pads at the scissor marks. A possible solution might be the right size of ribbon cable connector to slide on to the cut end. Then the pads would be better as gold plated to ensure connection reliability. We are back to a little complexity for the beginner, so best to cut your teeth on one of the little boards above, first. These strips will be great underneath cupboards to illuminate the bench below. They can also find a place as fluoro tube replacements in fluoro fittings, but we are now back to the solder job. Contact cement may be needed to attach the strips. More on them after I have had time to examine a sample.
You can cut anywhere at the scissor mark. What ever piece you have from three LEDs to 66 LEDs will run fine on 12 volts. Those little square blocks you see on the strip are surface mount resistors (150 ohms on the Deal Extreme version, 130 ohms on the pictured one) just right for 12 volts.
The solder tabs are already marked for your wires as +ve and -ve. Either end of the strip, or strip section, or other tabs along the rails, is an identical place electrically, so choose any convenient spot for your wires.
Lawrie says:
This second one below has an adhesive backing and is the Jaycar one.
Both strips are available in long lengths and may be cut in to any combination of three LED segments for your application. For 24 volts you would just put two equal cut portions in series. Thus minimum lamp size for 24 volts would be six LEDs instead of three for 12 volts.
Choose enough strip for about 30 LEDs and you would have a pretty good area lamp or reading lamp for the bed. These surface mount LEDs spread the light about 140 degrees so can be used effectively without a diffusing cover.
Two meters of these flexible cutable strips in series for 24 volts above. Light shining on the kitchen benchtop is brilliant. I laid the strips on double sided tape and attached to a couple of venetian blind cedar slats. Tiny Robertson screws hold the slats in place.
LaWrie just tried the 66 LED strip in a fluoro fittng below. He Says:"Just done the first of 5 double fluoro's in our new wheels. Used one of DX's strips that I already had so will hang back now and see how long it lasts before i order more. May opt for the new current controlled type that BB mentions.
Results speak for themselves, at least as bright as the 2x8w tubes it replaced and clean white light not wimpy warm brown fluoro colour."
Click here for LaWrie's page for more detail and use of some Bunnings downlights
It seems that Lawrie had little trouble soldering wires to the tabs at the cut sections.
His lamp should be under five watts to replace the 16 watts of fluoros AND provide better illumination.
Another for the WOW! factor.
Here it is with the diffuser in place.
Again, more detail on LaWrie's site here: Also some other ideas on the Bunnings product to suit those little halogen downlight fittings.
Also another couple of DX strips to watch until someone gets a chance to report on them.
This one is quite expensive at forty bucks
It might have multi emitter LEDs for a large light output
And this one at only twelve bucks
seems to have closely packed LEDS also for dense light output.
You have to watch that the double sided tape will hold it's stick over the long term. I used it to attach the strips to a wood slat base and then took a fine little paint brush and added white glue down both edges of the strip to make the bond more secure. The very similar strip from Jaycar has an adhesive backing but runs well over six times the price and needs a special order.
I like this glue.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6404
I used it to cement the various LED blocks from DX to a base for my light fittings. Again more reliable than the double sided tape supplied with them.
Below is a pic for a new strip product from Deal Extreme. Ten bucks. Another best buy. Draws a little over 200 mA at 12 volts for a rating of about 2.5 watts. These are the larger Superflux LEDs like the rectangular 30 LED board above. Heaps of cool white light. Just the ticket for outside or under your cupboards to light up your bench space.
I liked my sample enough to order three more. I will use a pair in series for 24 volts under a shelf to shine on the kitchen bench. They would also be good for outside use.
John says:
"Bbb the 30 strip is a WINNER wow I am impressed trouble is i am now starting to retrofit the retrofits i am thinking of fitting the strip into the the inside of the rollout awning for extra light combined with the 56 led's in the outside light we will be easy to find ."
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5256
It is advised that this 30 LED strip be used with a resistor in the supply wiring to protect against charging voltages. I have not cut a sample of the strip open, but measurements suggest it may also have inadequate 120 ohm resistors on the ten strings of three LEDs.
Below Al has used a pair of the 30 LED strips as bench top lighting.
The image below is for strip LEDs from another source. Strips in various lengths are available from an eBay seller here.
Seller is Spectrumleds. Have a look at his store. John bought some in lengths of 48 LEDs and says they are good. He is waiting on others 96 LEDs long. I have yet to see a sample but understand they are bright and in sets of three in series for correct efficiency. Price seems to be around three or four LEDs to the dollar on various offers, so check out the site. Waterproof and flexible, I think the shortest lengths have 12 LEDs. These LEDs are not the four legged superflux type.
24 volt use will depend on using the shorter lengths in series or possible cuts to a longer strip if solder tabs or rails can be exposed.
Hang on! Looks like DX just listed the same thing in a 504 LED strip for seventy bucks.
Now also available from DX in shorter lengths.
LaWrie now reports that 150 ohm resistors can be seen through the transparent encapsulation material. These strips should thus be fine at charging voltages just as are the cutable strips.
It has been reported that the rails may have too much resistance for effective use in the full five meter length. Some users have taken to connecting power source at both ends to eliminate less bright LEDs at the far end.
John Hunt and Ian Bond have both received the above 504 strip from DE. Ian says that cutting the strip in to sections and attaching leads would be tricky at best, getting under the encapsulating material.
Here John has used the strips to form area lights in circular fittings. He is buying the DX shorter 96 LED versions of the five meter strip.
You can view my purchases and reviews from Dealextreme. Click here
I have avoided direct bulb replacement LED lighting. While replacing a 50 watt halogen bulb with a one or three watt LED one might be a simple process, it might not be your best choice. Light colour might offer limited choice and getting an exact physical size fit might cause you problems.Another issue relates to the circuitry included to run the various LED types on 12 volts. Some are efficient, others might be wasteful. It is difficult to tell until the design has been examined and measurements taken.
You can still use your existing lamp housing with a little modification to fit other choices.The little 12 LED miniature boards using the smaller superflux LEDs above work very well.
If you want to try the direct bulb replacement types, you will find a range of on the Deal Extreme site similar to the one pictured below.
or here:
http://www.besthongkong.com/index.php?cPath=9_69
Below this point is the original LED page for DIY- Moved to renamed DIY LED page.
LEDs are far and away the best solution for lighting in any recreational vehicle. Just as fluorescent lights were a major advance on incandescentlighting, LEDs are now a major advance on fluorescent. You can havearea lighting and spot lights and reading lamps in any ambience you prefer. You can do all of this at low cost and use tiny amounts of
energy from your batteries.
If you are sceptical, read on. Others were as well until they saw them in action.
You will still read statements at odds with the above today, especially claims that LEDs are little more efficient than incandescent lights. You need the full story.
bravenet.com